In between trying out as many Easter markets as we could, we fit in a surprising number of restaurants on our recent trip to Budapest. And I could have eaten at many more—at the time my great-grandfather was born in Slovakia, it was the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so the food very closely mimics much of what I have been eating my entire life. Especially the stuffed cabbage, which is a family favorite and something I tried at every opportunity in Budapest. Among many, many other things.
1. Paprika Vendéglő
Being a short walk from Keleti, the main train station in Budapest, Paprika makes for a great first or last stop in the city. The corner restaurant doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside is fashioned to look like an old country home, with cozy traditional Hungarian food to match. This was our final meal in Budapest, so I’d already tried most of the local food and, with a train ride to Bratislava on the horizon, didn’t want to overdo it, so I only tried to goulash over spaetzel, which was delicious. The place was packed, so be prepared to either wait or go during off-hours. Dozsa Gyoergy ut 72, Budapest 1071
2. Belvárosi Disznótoros
This one was care of Anthony Bourdain, and with a name that translates to “Downtown Pig Slaughter,” it’s not hard to see why. One half of the counter is food that is ready to go and be plated up right away, the other half is a selection of marinated meats that they will cook to order—though you have to order from each counter separately, which can be confusing. We stuck with the ready-to-go food and ate upstairs (where it was hard to find a seat), feasting on a pile of red cabbage, mashed potatoes, sausage, pickles, and a healthy schmear of mustard. I opted for blood sausage, which was delicious, though like all Eastern European food, the meal was extremely heavy. Be ready to nap afterwards. Király ut 1d, Budapest 1075
3. Szimpla Kert
Budapest is known for its “ruin bars”—cheap drink spots that pop up in old, rundown spaces—and Szimpla Kert is the original and most well-known of them. Tucked into the Jewish Quarter, the spot offers plenty of options for cheap beer and a relaxed place to hang out for a night. There are food options (as well as a weekly farmer’s market), but the real draw here is the drinking. Swing by with some friends—or to make some friends—before or after your meal. Kazinczy ut 14, Budapest 1075
4. Hungarikum Bisztró
Another restaurant offering traditional Hungarian food in a quaint checkered-tablecloth setting, Hungarikum Bisztró was still well worth stopping by. It felt almost as if we were eating in someone’s home. I, of course, had the stuffed cabbage (and immediately fell in love with the Hungarians’ propensity for topping everything with incredible amounts of fresh sour cream), which turned out to be the best stuffed cabbage I’ve ever had. We also tried the Hungarian spaetzel and sausage, braided pork loin with spaetzel and paprika sauce, and our first sample of langós—fried bread with various toppings—that had me searching it out at every opportunity afterwards. Whether it’s because we had just come from a long wine tasting or because it really was that good, this was one of the best meals we had our entire time in Budapest. Steindl Imre ut 13, Budapest 1051
5. Faust Wine Cellar
Located below the Hilton in the Buda Castle District, the stairs to this small wine cave lead through the remnants of a 13 century Dominican Cloister. The atmosphere could not be better or more relaxed as one of the proprietors, Gabor, pours you Hungarian wine and explains the varietal and where you can find the region on a map. I would strongly recommend going for the full tasting of 9 wines (which comes with water and small snacks), which also has the final option of a “call back” so you can re-taste your favorite. Needless to say, these were all new wines to me and I learned quite a bit (and reinforced my love for the Hungarian sweet wine Tokaji). There are very few tables, so I would strongly recommend booking in advance, which you can do for 2pm or 5pm. The 5pm booking is especially nice when you leave and walk out into the castle district at dusk, slightly buzzed, and take in the lighted beauty of the area. Hess András tér 1, Budapest 1014
6. Café Ruszwurm
Also in the Buda Castle District, this small pastry shop seems to always be packed, so be ready to hang around and vulture a seat when someone gets up. The wait is worth it, though, for some solid coffee and amazing pastry—especially Ruszwurm‘s cream cake. The cream cake is a cooked egg cream mixed with vanilla and then cooled and mixed with whipped cream, making it one of the fluffiest, most delicious cakes I’ve ever had. Cake isn’t even an apt description—more like “clouds between phyllo.” This is easily one of my fondest food memories from our trip, and should be considered a must-have. We also tried the caramel cake, which was layers of caramel custard cream between layers of salty, chocolate sponge cake. While fantastic, this was overshadowed by the cream cake. Szentháromság ut 7, Budapest 1014
7. Great Market Hall
If you’re not quite sure what you want, swing by the Great Market Hall, where you’ll be able to get anything that catches your eye. There are a bunch of touristy stands with knick-knacks and Budapest shirts, but there are also tons of food stalls, selling anything you would imagine a market would sell (and now may be a good time to pick up some paprika). Upstairs there are some quality food stands, and a lot that feature langós with a variety of toppings to add on. A great way to get a quick meal and also do some quality browsing and shopping. Vámház krt. 1-3, Budapest 1093
Decisions, decisions.
Ryan Travels and Eats 